Experience Tofino: Two Nights Aboard a Sailboat Adventure

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VERDICT: We gave 5 out of 5 tickets and here’s why!

This guide forms part of our complete Canada Travel Guide featuring scenic road trips, iconic destinations, practical travel advice and honest first-hand travel experiences from across the UK.

This article is part of our Exploring Vancouver Island Ultimate Guide. We’ve explored some of the Island’s most popular cities, from Victoria, Nanaimo, Parksville and from Tofino to Port Hardy! Along the way, we’ve discovered spectacular coastlines and unforgettable small island road trips. Explore our firsthand Vancouver Island travel guides to help plan a better, more informed Canadian vacation.

Sign for seaplane tours beside boats at a dock near the water.

A scenic view of a dock with a seaplane and boats on calm water, surrounded by mountains and trees under a clear blue sky.

Two Nights Aboard a 42-Foot Sailboat Surrounded by the Wild Beauty of Tofino

Getting to Tofino from the Lower Mainland is also part of the adventure. We reserved our BC Ferries crossing from Tsawwassen to Duke Point in Nanaimo because we knew we had a substantial drive ahead of us once we reached Vancouver Island. August is an extremely busy time for ferry travel, so having a reservation removed some of the uncertainty and allowed us to concentrate on enjoying the journey.

TOFINO BOUND

We were looking for an unusual August getaway when we found the perfect opportunity: three days and two nights aboard a 42-foot sailboat in Tofino. This wasn’t going to be a hotel overlooking the harbour or a waterfront cabin. We were actually going to live and sleep on the water. Neither of us had ever stayed overnight on a yacht before, so that alone was enough reason to book it.

► Day 1: Tsawwassen to Vancouver Island

We arrived at the Tsawwassen ferry terminal, joined the vehicle line and eventually drove aboard for the approximately two-hour crossing to Duke Point. Once the car was safely parked on the vehicle deck, we headed upstairs, found somewhere comfortable to sit and watched the Lower Mainland gradually disappear behind us as we travelled across the Strait of Georgia.

There’s something about beginning a road trip with a ferry journey that immediately makes it feel like a proper getaway. Instead of simply spending hours driving, we could relax, enjoy the scenery and look forward to the journey ahead. Before too long Vancouver Island appeared in the distance, and soon we were back in the car waiting for the ferry doors to open. Then we were driving onto the island and beginning the next part of our adventure.

► Nanaimo to Tofino: Make the Drive Part of the Trip

The drive from Nanaimo to Tofino is roughly 200 kilometres, depending on where you begin around Nanaimo, and takes approximately three hours without substantial stops. But simply driving straight through misses some of the best parts of central Vancouver Island. We had travelled this route before and sometimes been guilty of concentrating on reaching Tofino as quickly as possible. This time we wanted the journey itself to become part of our three-day getaway.

Our route took us north towards Parksville and Qualicum Beach before turning west along Highway 4 towards Coombs, Cathedral Grove and Port Alberni. From Port Alberni, Highway 4 crosses the mountainous interior of Vancouver Island before eventually reaching the wild Pacific coast and the communities of Ucluelet and Tofino.

► Parksville and Qualicum Beach

Parksville makes an excellent early stop after leaving Nanaimo. The community is famous for its broad sandy beaches, particularly Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park, where low tide can expose an enormous stretch of sand. Even if you don’t have enough time for a long visit, getting out of the car and walking beside the water is a great way to begin the road trip.

Nearby Qualicum Beach offers another opportunity to enjoy Vancouver Island’s east coast before heading inland. The waterfront has beautiful views across the Strait of Georgia towards the mainland mountains, and the community has a relaxed atmosphere that makes it tempting to stay considerably longer than planned. We still had a long way to travel, however, so Highway 4 was calling.

► Englishman River Falls

If time permits, Englishman River Falls Provincial Park is well worth the short detour from the main route. Forest trails wind through Douglas fir, cedar, hemlock and maple trees before reaching the river and its waterfalls. The upper falls tumble into a narrow canyon, while bridges and trails provide several perspectives over the rushing water.

This is exactly the sort of stop we enjoy on a road trip. It doesn’t require devoting an entire day to hiking, but it gives you an opportunity to stretch your legs, get into the forest and experience another side of Vancouver Island before continuing towards the west coast.

► Coombs and the Famous Goats on the Roof

One of Vancouver Island’s quirkiest road-trip stops is Coombs Old Country Market, best known for the goats that graze on its grass-covered roof during the warmer months. Yes, actual goats on the roof. It sounds like a tourist gimmick and perhaps it is, but it has become such a Vancouver Island tradition that it’s difficult to drive through Coombs without stopping.

The market and surrounding businesses offer groceries, international foods, gifts, cafés and plenty of opportunities to pick up something for the journey. It’s also a good place to buy snacks before heading farther along Highway 4, where the landscape begins to change dramatically.

► Walking Among Giants at Cathedral Grove

Our next major stop was Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Provincial Park, one of the most impressive natural attractions on the drive between Nanaimo and Tofino. This remarkable old-growth forest contains enormous Douglas firs, some more than 800 years old. Walking underneath them puts time into perspective; these trees were already centuries old before Europeans reached the Pacific coast of what is now Canada.

Trails run through the forest on both sides of Highway 4. The southern section contains some of the largest Douglas firs, including an enormous tree measuring more than nine metres around its trunk, while trails on the northern side lead among ancient western red cedars. The most important thing to do here is remarkably simple: stop, look upwards and appreciate the sheer scale of the forest canopy above you.

Cathedral Grove can become extremely busy during summer, and parking beside Highway 4 is limited. Visitors should use legal parking areas and take particular care when crossing the highway between trail systems. Nearby Cameron Lake, surrounded by mountains and forest, provides another beautiful piece of scenery as the road continues towards Port Alberni.

► Port Alberni: Gateway to Vancouver Island’s West Coast

Highway 4 eventually brings you into Port Alberni, situated at the head of Alberni Inlet and surrounded by mountains. Traditionally associated with forestry and fishing, Port Alberni is also an important gateway between central Vancouver Island and the Pacific coast. For anyone heading to Tofino, it is an excellent place to refuel, grab something to eat and check the latest highway conditions before continuing west.

If you have additional time, there are several worthwhile places to explore. Harbour Quay provides waterfront views across Alberni Inlet along with shops and places to eat, while Hole in the Wall is an unusual man-made opening through the rock where water now flows through a beautiful forest setting. Farther west, Sproat Lake is another excellent stop for swimming, paddling or simply enjoying the surrounding mountain and forest scenery.

► Into the Mountains on Highway 4

Beyond Port Alberni, Highway 4 becomes a very different road. It twists through the mountainous interior of Vancouver Island, passing forests, rivers and lakes as it makes its way towards the Pacific. This isn’t a section of highway we recommend rushing. The bends, elevation changes and changing road conditions require attention, while the scenery constantly gives you reasons to slow down anyway.

One place we particularly wanted to see was Wally Creek, a small roadside stop near the Kennedy River. The rushing water has carved smooth rock formations and natural potholes into the surrounding stone, creating clear pools among enormous boulders. It looked like exactly the sort of unexpected roadside discovery we enjoy. Unfortunately, Highway 4 had other plans for us.

► Wally Creek: The Stop That Wasn’t to Be

As we approached the Wally Creek area, we encountered major road construction. From what we could see, substantial work appeared to be taking place along the cliffs beside the highway, possibly involving reinforcement of the rock face. Then the traffic stopped and stayed stopped.

We spent more than two hours sitting in backed-up traffic. There wasn’t much we could do except wait and watch the clock. We actually got out of the car and wandered along the road, joined by many others. Eventually vehicles began moving again, but our planned Wally Creek stop was no longer practical. It would have to remain on our list for another trip.

The experience taught us an important lesson about travelling Highway 4: don’t build a tight schedule around this road. Construction, accidents, weather and other road conditions can create significant delays. We recommend checking DriveBC before leaving, carrying water and snacks, making sure you have enough fuel and allowing considerably more time than the basic driving estimate suggests. Most importantly, don’t plan a tight connection with your return ferry.

► Finally Arriving in Tofino

After our unexpected two-hour delay, arriving in Tofino felt particularly good. We contacted the operator of the yacht, who met us promptly near the harbour. We parked our vehicle, grabbed our bags and made our way down to the quay, but our accommodation wasn’t conveniently tied alongside the dock. We still had one more journey to make.

Our host helped us aboard a small motorboat and we headed away from the harbour and into the estuary. As we travelled across the water, our 42-foot yacht finally came into view. It looked incredible, moored by itself and surrounded by forests, mountains, blue sky and sunshine. There was hardly another boat around; in fact, the only other yacht we could see was several hundred yards away.

This was exactly the unusual getaway we’d been hoping for.

► Welcome Aboard Our 42-Foot Yacht

We climbed aboard and were given the obligatory tour. The yacht was spacious, comfortable and extremely well maintained, with everything we needed for our two-night stay. We were shown the sleeping areas, galley and onboard facilities and given instructions about how everything worked.

There was another bonus. The small motorboat would be left with us, allowing us to travel back to shore or explore the surrounding estuary whenever we wanted. Once everything had been explained, our host climbed into another boat and left. Suddenly, it was just the two of us, alone aboard a 42-foot yacht in Tofino.

There was something rather thrilling about that moment. Fortunately, we didn’t need to worry about skippering the yacht itself. It would remain securely attached to its mooring throughout our stay, so our job was simply to settle in and enjoy our floating home.

A person taking a photo with a smartphone while enjoying a sunset over calm waters, surrounded by trees and mountains.

► Steak, Wine and an Incredible Tofino Sunset

After such a long journey, neither of us was interested in going anywhere that evening. We unpacked, made ourselves comfortable and prepared a lovely steak dinner in the galley. Then we opened a bottle of wine and headed onto the deck.

That was when Tofino delivered the real show. The sun gradually dropped towards the horizon, reflecting across the water as the surrounding forests and mountains became silhouettes. There was no traffic, no restaurant reservation and virtually nobody else around. It was simply the two of us sitting on the deck of a yacht with a glass of wine, watching the sun disappear over one of British Columbia’s most spectacular coastal landscapes.

It was one of those occasions when you don’t need entertainment because the location provides everything. The long ferry journey, mountain drive and two-hour traffic delay suddenly seemed a very long way away.

► Day 2: Waking Up on the Water

The following morning we woke surrounded by calm water and incredible scenery. There’s something quite different about opening your eyes and remembering that you’re sleeping aboard a yacht. After breakfast, we sat outside for a while before deciding it was time to put our little motorboat to use.

My husband started the outboard motor and we headed away from the yacht to explore the estuary. For the first couple of kilometres everything went well, but then we began encountering increasingly thick layers of seaweed. Our little motorboat was not particularly impressed.

The seaweed started interfering with the propeller, which meant stopping to remove it before setting off again. Then we would travel a little farther and have to repeat the process. Meanwhile, much larger fishing vessels seemed to glide through the same area without the slightest difficulty. Clearly, they had a little more power at their disposal.

After spending far too much of our morning clearing seaweed from the propeller, we admitted defeat and headed back towards the yacht. Sometimes the sensible part of an adventure is knowing when to change the plan.

► A Better Plan: Lunch in Tofino

Once we reached the yacht, we decided exploring the estuary could wait. Going ashore for lunch sounded considerably more appealing. We took the motorboat towards the harbour, tied it up and walked back towards the main road, where we remembered seeing Surf Grill.

After our battle with the seaweed, sitting outside in the sunshine enjoying a leisurely lunch was exactly what we needed. We spent a relaxed couple of hours eating and exploring the surrounding area before returning to the harbour. Then we climbed back into our little motorboat and headed across the water towards the yacht. By now, navigating between the harbour and our floating home was starting to feel surprisingly normal.

► A Second Spectacular Sunset

Back aboard, we settled in for our second evening. In less than 24 hours, the yacht had already begun to feel familiar. We knew where everything was, understood the routine and had become comfortable with the fact that our nearest neighbours were a considerable distance away.

That evening we were treated to another spectacular sunset, and this one may have been even better than the first. The water seemed to glow as the light changed, with mountains and forest creating the perfect backdrop. We’ve watched sunsets in many places around the world, but this was certainly one of the best. Sitting on the deck with a glass of wine while the final light reflected across the water became our favourite part of the entire getaway.

We assumed the day’s excitement was over. We were wrong.

What Was THAT?

Very late that evening, we suddenly heard a loud bang on the deck. We froze. Remember, we were alone on a yacht moored away from shore, and something substantial had just landed directly above our cabin. Our first thought was that somebody had somehow boarded the boat, so our anxiety level increased rather quickly.

We slowly made our way towards the hatch to investigate. Fortunately, there were no human intruders. Instead, a very large sea lion had somehow hauled itself out of the water and onto the yacht. It was now flopping around on the deck above our cabin.

Of all the things we’d imagined might happen while spending two nights aboard a yacht in Tofino, having a sea lion arrive as an unexpected late-night guest hadn’t made the list. Eventually our substantial visitor moved on, leaving us looking at each other and wondering whether that had actually just happened. It had. Our unusual accommodation had just become considerably more memorable.

► Day 3: Our Final Morning Aboard

Morning arrived far too quickly. After only two nights, we’d become surprisingly attached to our floating home. We packed our bags, stepped outside and took one last look at the mountains, forest and water surrounding us. The peaceful setting that had seemed so unfamiliar when we first arrived now felt remarkably comfortable.

Eventually it was time to leave. We loaded our bags into the small motorboat and made the final journey back to Tofino Harbour. Our host met us, we returned the boat and stepped back onto dry land. Then we loaded everything into our car and prepared for the long drive across Vancouver Island to Nanaimo and our ferry home.

Top 10 Stops Between Nanaimo and Tofino

The Nanaimo-to-Tofino journey shouldn’t simply be treated as three hours of driving. Parksville offers long sandy beaches, while nearby Qualicum Beach provides beautiful coastal scenery. Englishman River Falls is worth the detour for its forest trails and waterfalls, and Coombs Old Country Market provides the obligatory goats-on-the-roof experience.

Farther west, Cathedral Grove is the essential stop for ancient old-growth forest, while neighbouring Cameron Lake provides another beautiful mountain landscape. Port Alberni is the ideal place for food, fuel and a waterfront break before continuing towards Sproat Lake. Wally Creek deserves a stop for its sculpted rocks, potholes and clear rushing water — assuming the highway behaves better for you than it did for us. Finally, reaching Pacific Rim National Park Reserve brings the reward for crossing the island: temperate rainforest, enormous beaches and the wild Pacific Ocean.

What Else Can You Do in Tofino?

Our yacht was the focus of this particular getaway, but Tofino easily deserves several additional days. Long Beach, within Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, is one of Vancouver Island’s great coastal landscapes, while Chesterman Beach and Cox Bay provide more opportunities for walking, surfing and watching the Pacific roll ashore.

The surrounding waters also open up an entirely different collection of experiences. Visitors can take whale-watching excursions, search the shoreline for black bears on wildlife tours, kayak through the protected waters of Clayoquot Sound or simply spend time exploring Tofino’s galleries, shops, restaurants and harbour. If you have another day available, drive south to Ucluelet and walk part of the spectacular Wild Pacific Trail.

Tips for Staying on a Yacht in Tofino

Staying aboard a yacht is very different from checking into a hotel, and that’s exactly why we enjoyed it. Pack lightly and consider using soft luggage rather than large rigid suitcases because storage space aboard any boat is valuable. Bring layers even in August because evenings on Vancouver Island’s west coast can become cool, and remember that you’re sleeping on water, so some movement is inevitable.

Before booking, establish exactly what facilities are provided, including the toilet, shower, galley, drinking water, electricity and refrigeration. If a tender or small motorboat is included, make sure you’re comfortable operating it and understand where you’re permitted to travel. We would also recommend bringing groceries for at least one meal aboard. Cooking our steak dinner and then sitting outside with a bottle of wine meant we had absolutely no reason to leave the yacht on our first evening and that became one of the highlights of the trip.

Most importantly, spend time on deck. If you’re going to book unusual accommodation surrounded by some of the most beautiful scenery on Vancouver Island, don’t spend the entire evening inside.

Is Sleeping on a Yacht in Tofino Worth It?

Without question. This wasn’t simply somewhere unusual to sleep; the yacht became the experience itself. The ferry crossing and drive across Vancouver Island turned getting there into a road trip, while Cathedral Grove, Coombs, Port Alberni and the extraordinary scenery along Highway 4 gave us plenty to explore before we even reached Tofino. Even our two-hour traffic delay eventually became another part of the story.

Our unsuccessful motorboat expedition gave us something to laugh about, while the unexpected sea lion gave us a story we’ll probably tell forever. But neither was the real highlight. That was something much simpler: sitting together on the deck at the end of the day, a glass of wine in hand, nobody else around, with forests and mountains surrounding us and an incredible Tofino sunset reflecting across the glistening water.

Would we do it again? Absolutely. We’ll be pencilling this one in for a repeat.

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Sleeping on a 42 Ft Yacht in Tofino ⎮ Our Most Unusual 3-Day Vancouver Island Road Trip